2. May 2013 23:50
Adding clam shells or tarts can be extremely easy, and, in many instances, you can use your existing wax formula and these products can then double as a way for you to send samples of what your fragrances smell like.
Ideally, the best wax to use for making tarts and clam shell melts is the CBL-129. It has excellent cold fragrance throw and will release very nice from the clam shell or the tart mold. You can use a low shrink wax but they do not release as well from the molds and soy can be brittle at times getting the wax out without breaking.
If using a wax like CBL-129 or a paraffin wax take the product up to around 140°F. With soy you will only need to take the wax up to around 120°F or so.
When your wax reaches the desired temperatures add your dye. With soy it will be easier to use liquid dyes because they will not have to melt like the color blocks.
Add your fragrance. In most instances, since you want to deliver great fragrance throw with a small cube you should be closer to 7-9% fragrance which works out to about 1.25-1.85 ounce per pound of wax. Again a reason to use the CBL-129 is that it will hold that much fragrance.
Lay out the clam shells and slowly pour your wax to the desired level.
When your wax is hard simply close and apply a label. You can custom design your own label for the front by going to Avery.com
Step 4 (alternative)
If you wanted to make tarts you should heat the wax close to 150°F and then choose the mold you want to pour into. The Floating candle mold M-112 is one of the most popular choices but there are many other choices like hearts, ducks, ships and others. In addition soap molds can also be used for making tarts.
The nice thing about the clam shells mold is the packing. After pouring the only handling required is closing and applying a label. The clam shell also has a "peg hole" - making it easy to display on any retail location. These products are also a great way to use up your extra wax and maximize your wax yield.
17. August 2012 20:02
Jar candles have become so popular in recent years that many candle makers have forgotten the power of pillars. Pillar candles can add a real touch of beauty to any home decor, as they can offer extremely vibrant colors. Due to the fact that there is no glass blocking, the true color of the candle can be seen with the naked eye. Aluminum molds are best to create these freestanding candles and are a great investment because aluminum does not rust, so you can enjoy your molds for many years and reduce your expenses!
Selecting your mold can be fun. Candlewic offers many shapes and sizes, depending on the pillar that would best complement your existing line of candles. There are round molds, octagon molds, square molds, plus many other unique shapes in our designer series of polycarbonate molds.
There are two wicking techniques that are most commonly employed when using aluminum molds. You can use the traditional method or the pillar pin method. Both techniques work well depending on the volume of candles produced or the amount of labor available.
The traditional method involves the mold, raw wicking on a spool, a wick bar and a rubber plug. This method is best for lower volume production or in the instance when you want to leave a little length of wick on the candle to attach a bead or a tag. You simply thread the wick through the mold and place a rubber plug into the small hole to hold the wick in place. Place a wick bar across the large opening of the mold, wrap the wick around the bar and pour the wax. After the wax has cooled, the finished product will have the wick nicely centered down the middle of the candle.
The pillar pin method involves a round mold, a pillar pin and a pre-wick assembly. This method is better suited for the small to large production run. Basically, you are making a candle with no wick and inserting a wick after it cools. There are two ways to use the pin. You can either stick the disc part of the pin down into the mold or stick the pin up through the mold from the outside bottom. Pour the wax and let it cool. When you are done, you will have a candle with a hole through the center core and no wick. Take a wick assembly, insert it up through the hole and you are done. The wick will be perfectly centered. The pillar pins are only suited for the round aluminum molds.
When using aluminum molds, here are a few tips and techniques that will help you no matter what your method:
- Take good care of your molds. Do not use them for any other use, such as a penholder or thermometer holder, because you may scratch the inside, which will be apparent on the finished candle.
- By heating or cooling the mold you can achieve different aesthetic qualities to the finished mold. Cold molds give a primitive appearance, while warm molds may give a good gloss.
- Keep molds level, unless a desired layered appearance is trying to be obtained. By resting the mold on various angles, some neat stripes can be achieved.
- Take careful note on the pour temperatures. By adjusting the temperature you can control the shrinkage. Pouring too hot produces more shrinkage and may involve more topping off, while pouring too cool may not give you enough shrinkage, therefore making it difficult to remove the mold.
8. May 2012 19:38
Have you noticed an item in your home that you thought would make a unique candle and/or soap mold? Did you then realize that making the mold was a difficult and costly endeavor? This was truly the case until Miracle Mold Material (M3) came along.
We have selected a flower to use for this project, but you can use any similar object. The best project to get started with should be simple, until you learn how to work with the material.
The first step is to take equal part of the material (again, starting with something small and only using a small portion of the material). One is an ivory color and the other is yellow. Mix them together thoroughly by hand. You will know they are mixed together thoroughly when the material is a consistent yellow with no streaks. You will have to work fast because the material will start to set in about 5 minutes.
The next step is to take the material and form it around the flower. Make sure you apply pressure throughout the object and that there is some level of thickness to the material around the object. Depending on what the object is, leave the bottom of the object open so you can pour the wax/soap base into the complete mold. The thicker the molding material is, the more durable the mold will be in the future.
Once you have the material uniformly covered (leaving the bottom open), take the bottom of the mold/top of the candle and gently flatten it out so the mold will rest flat.
Let the product set, which generally takes 30-40 minutes, and then remove your object from the material. You now have your finished mold, and you can take the wax and pour it into the mold.
- Make your own custom candle and soap molds that are great for weddings, baby showers and other special events.
- Make your own embeds.
- Easy to mix by hand.
- No waste of materials - only mold to the level of the desired thickness of the mold.
- Very fast set-up time; no need to wait overnight to use.
- Can be used with wax or soap.
18. April 2012 17:51
With spring upon us, the flower candles and scents will soon be what every one is asking for. The Rose Floater is a nice addition to any outside party or inside party filling your bath tub.
This candle can be made very easily using the M-22 Rose Floater (this is a very popular mold right now so give yourself some extra time). Start by sliding unwaxed wick material through the bottom of the mold.
You will need a "long pointed" object to force the wick through the hole. Once the wick is passed through the bottom of the mold, secure it on top of the mold with a wick bar. If you don't have a wick bar, a popsicle stick will work.
Leave extra lengths of wick at the bottom of the mold so when you remove your candle from the mold, it will be automatically wicked for your next pour.
You then secure the mold together with rubber bands. Take your paraffin wax, CBL-141, which can be scented and/or colored and pour at around 180-185 degrees F. Top off the candle. When the candle has properly solidified, remove it from the mold. This floating candle will add a nice accent to any party.
Pour a number of these roses in red. After about four or five pours, pour one in white. The dye, which can accumulate on the mold, will "bleed" into the white wax and create a lovely pink color.
10. March 2010 00:49
It seems in today's market one segment of the market which can go over looked is the Free standing or "pillar market". It seems everyone has different containers, tins and glassware and nothing can compliment the line then a nice pillar candle. Pillars are a logical progression because these types of candles are easy to make, smell great, and are relatively easy to maintain multiple brands using different labels. Every candle maker is faced with the challenge of creating more revenue for various reasons whether it is at the crafting level to fuel their hobby, or a manufacturer that needs to pay next week's payroll.
One way to bring in new customers and increase sales is to offer new and unique candles that are not offered by you competition. This can easily be achieved by learning how to make freestanding or pillar candles using a variety of mold techniques. According to the National Candle Association, candle users say they most frequently burn candles in the living room (42%), followed by the kitchen (18%) and the bedroom (13%). One may assume that aesthetics are important in the living room and creating beautifully unique pillars that burn cleanly could be a great way to increase sales. The following tips and tricks should help you with increasing your freestanding candle offering.
- Aluminum molds are heat resistant, durable, and leave no ugly seams in the finished candle. Finished candles are professional looking and have an extremely smooth finish.
- Pillar Pins are a great way to increase production while maintaining perfectly straight wicks. Once mastered they are a necessity for making pillars efficiently.
- If you are using rubber plugs to seal the wick hole, place molds on two parallel strips of wood or other material that allows you to keep molds level.
- Adjust pouring temperature to achieve different effects. If candles are not de-molding easily, try raising pour temperature a bit.
- Leave an extra few feet of wick coming from the bottom of the mold. This way fresh wick comes up through the wick hole when you remove the finished candle, thus eliminating the need to push wick through the tiny hole for the next candle.
- You can carefully trim the mold down the sides or where needed with a sharp razor blade.
- Rub a very small amount of petrolatum on the seam to help smooth seams. While you are rubbing the petrolatum on the seam, use the opportunity to verify you have the mold correctly lined up.
- Use picture wire or a D-string from a mandolin to help you wick the mold the same way you would thread a needle.
- Be sure to use the correct wax designed for free standing candles. If you use the wrong wax or incorrect temperature, it can be tricky getting the mold cleaned out.
- Do not pour wax into the mold if it is over 200 degrees or damage to the mold may occur.
In addition to the above types of molds we recently wrote about how easy custom size molds can be created. Making custom molds can increase your presence even more because those types of shapes/sizes will probably not be made by the larger candle producers.
One of the key points to stress is that you must continually update and reinvent your own line.