26. March 2013 20:22
One of the easiest novelty candles to make is the streak candle. What makes this project so easy is that you do not have to change anything you are doing when pouring your candles.
- To start this project, first select any pillar type mold. Melt your wax 10-15° F higher than your usual pouring temperature. Add your scent as usual but do not add color.
- Before pouring your wax into the mold take any color block or pigment dye and shave it into smaller pieces, you can do as many colors as desired.
- Once you have shavings of several colors, pour your wax into the mold.
- As soon as you are finished pouring, take pieces of your shavings and place a needle through the shavings.
- Hold the needle with the shavings against the mold. The dye will begin streaking down the sides causing a "tie dyed" effect. Repeat this using the same or different color, being careful not to over color.
Any mold can be used for this project.
Each candle made will look different than any other one and allows you to do an infinite amount of themed candles such as red, white and blue or any other color.
23. January 2013 02:02
One of the looks most often associated with heavily fragranced candles is the mottled look. This look can be easily accomplished with containers, pillars and votives. It requires starting with the right wax. Not all waxes will mottle, so using the right wax is essential.
The first step is to decide what type of candle you will be making and choosing the appropriate wax for that application.
Select, clean, wick, and prepare your jars or molds as you normally do.
Melt your wax, add color and 5% fragrance.
Once the candle has been poured and is completely cooled, remove it from the mold.
Pour your wax between 165-175°F.
Pillars and votives: Top off your candle. When the top off completely hardens, remove it from the mold.
Containers: Top off candle.
Special Notes on Mottled Candles:
The reaction between the fragrance and the wax (causing it to fracture) is what causes the mottling. The fragrance and the process can have an impact on the level of mottling. If you do not achieve the desired mottling, try pouring cooler first and then hotter until the desired result is achieved.
15. November 2012 18:56
Need a good gift for the holidays? What about a home-made candle? Tri-color candle jars are easy to make and beautiful too!
Add 1 lb of the Palm 1 wax into the pouring pitcher.
Clip the thermometer onto the top of the pouring pitcher with the thermometer inside.
Place the wax filled pouring pitcher into a large pan of boiling water. This will create a double boiler for you to heat your wax. Do not allow the water to boil dry.
NEVER HEAT WAX DIRECTLY ON A HEAT SOURCE. Heating wax on direct heat can cause the wax to overheat and possibly ignite.
As the wax melts, monitor the temperature with the thermometer. For accuracy do not allow the bottom of the thermometer to touch the bottom or sides of the pouring pot. Tip the pouring pot until the bottom of the thermometer is covered with the liquid wax. When the wax temperature reaches 185° F add two teaspoons of the liquid EVO-12 Burgundy color and stir.
Now you are ready to pour the first layer into the Apothecary jar. Monitor the temperature making sure it is at the pouring temperature of 180° F. Pour the first layer of colored wax into your jar to a height of 1”. After approximately 5 minutes place the RRD-50 wick into the jar. Make sure the wick tab is centered on the bottom of the container. The hot wax will cause the wick to lean so use wooden popsicle sticks or wooden coffee stirrers to prevent the wick from falling toward the sides of the jar. Place the stick across the top of the jar to support the wick. Two sticks may be needed. Place the wick between each stick until it is centered.
Allow the wax to cool for approximately 3 hours or until the layer is solid and firm.
To prepare your second layer you will add 4 oz of Palm 1 wax to the colored wax that remains in your pour pitcher and repeat the melting and pouring process above (remember do not add any color). We are increasing the wax amount so that the original color will decrease in intensity.
Repeat the cooling time for the second layer.
Last layer, add 4oz. of Palm 1 wax to the remaining wax in the pour pitcher and repeat the melt and pour processes, making sure that the pour temp is at 180° F. Repeat the cooling process.
25. September 2012 19:18
If you are starting out making candles and looking for a good "gift" or project for this holiday season, a Natural candle in a tin fits both needs. These tins are easy to make and can easily be personalized. In many instances tins do not always require coloring, and the natural color of the Soy works very well, especially for Aromatherapy candles.
The aluminum tin container eliminates the need to worry over "wet spots" commonly found in glass container candles and does not require a second pour. They are simple to make, easy to decorate and eliminate the issue of jars breaking in transit. So, if you are in need of a project with your group, this is perfect. And to really reduce your cost check out our clearance fragrances.
- Aluminum Tins
- Soy 125
- Wick Assembly
- Color (optional)
Heat your Soy 125 to around 150 F if you are not adding any color. If you are adding color, heat your wax up to around 180 F. Add your dye and scent and let cool back down to 150 F.
We offer several options for coloring your wax.
Remove the lids from your tins and arrange on the pouring table. Some people insert wicks first with a glue dot and some add the wick after they pour. Both methods work well.
Add your fragrance and pour.
Let cool and decorate the tin as desired. Tins get hot, so be sure to label the finished candle appropriately.
19. August 2011 22:32
This month’s project is an easy way for making simple taper candles by using polyurethane molds. These candles are a timeless favorite over the decades and the easy to use polyurethane molds allows the candle maker to make this candle on a small scale with out the need for equipment such as dipping rings that make many tapers at one time.
Prepare your wax with color and fragrance as you normally would for any other candle. Remember that it helps to add color and additives at a slightly elevated temperature for uniform dispersion. Let the wax cool in order to add your fragrance right before achieving the pouring temperature.
Cut a piece of wire a little larger than twice the length of your mold and bend it completely in half. Insert the folded end of the wire through the hole in the mold, and use it to pull the wick through the taper mold. Leave an extra long length of wick so when you remove one candle it pulls enough wick through the hole so it is ready to be poured again without the use of the wire next time.
Wrap the wick around the wick bar so it holds snug and give the inside of the mold a quick light spray of mold release. Pour the wax slowly into the mold. Keep an eye on the mold and top off as necessary.
Use the base former to achieve a fluted end that looks very professional and aids you customer in the placement of their candle in a candle holder. Be sure the taper is burnt in a suitable candleholder.