Without doubt one of the hottest topics in the US right now is the continued momentum in the marketing power of “Green Products.” No longer when someone refers to green does it mean money. The latest buzz associated with the multi-meaning word "green" is products/services that promote global environmental protection. This can be a very small effort such as the new trend in emails of putting a footnote at the bottom of the email “not to print out unless necessary” all the way up to homes that can now be self sufficient with solar power, wind, and other environmentally friendly features.

Our regular readers have probably noticed that using natural products has become a regular part of our features. Some of the information we will cover has appeared previously but some of the information may be very surprising and interesting. The good news is the candle market is chalk full of great products that can utilize raw materials that are renewable.

Green Candle Waxes

One way to keep your candle making process environmentally "green" is to choose a "green" candle wax.

1. Beeswax-Beeswax is 100% natural and contains no harmful additives. You can even make beeswax candles without melting the wax. Beeswax sheets provide an easy, eco-friendly alternative.
2. Soy Wax-Soy wax is simply hydrogenated soybean oil and the best application for this wax is in containers. Soy as a plant has been around for thousands of years.

Other Green Components

In addition to wax there are other key components of the candle to consider. In an effort to continue to offer products to meet today’s consumers, we are very excited to launch a brand new line of glassware made of 100% recycled glass. This new line will start with six styles and more to come.

Think of the marketing appeal your candle will have when you can advertise that the wax is natural and the glassware is made of 100% recycled glass. As companies look to make their candles more green, using recycled glass can go a long way in this strategy. Since the container is made of recycled glass there can be some uneven surfaces in the glass. If your strategy is to make your candles even more environmentally friendly this will go a long way in doing so.

Another component, while not large, is the metal sustainer. Did you know that metal was one of the first materials to be recycled and in today’s world is one of the most recycled materials. The metal sustainers we offer have on average 40% of recycled metals. In the upcoming months we will be trying to move that figure higher to 80%. The problem right now is there is a shortage of metal and achieving the percentage you desire in recycled material is not attainable.

One of the easier components of a candle to keep natural is the wick. The wick is generally cotton which is also 100% natural. On several series of wicks there are cores that can be natural such as cotton and paper. In addition, new wicks are continually developed to improve the performance of the candle regarding to sooting and smoking.

If you want all natural fragrances you can consider essential oils, however, they do have some inherent issues, such as low flash points and limited selection. Be sure to test any essential oil in your specific application.

The demand for green products will continue to increase and the more your products can offer that use "green components" the more markets you open.

If you are starting out making candles and looking for a good "gift" or project for this holiday season, a Natural candle in a tin fits both needs. These tins are easy to make and can easily be personalized. In many instances tins do not always require coloring, and the natural color of the Soy works very well, especially for Aromatherapy candles.

The aluminum tin container eliminates the need to worry over "wet spots" commonly found in glass container candles and does not require a second pour. They are simple to make, easy to decorate and eliminate the issue of jars breaking in transit. So, if you are in need of a project with your group, this is perfect. And to really reduce your cost check out our clearance fragrances.

Ingredients

•     Aluminum Tins
•     Soy 125
•     Wick Assembly
•     Color (optional)
•     Fragrance

Instructions

Step 1

Heat your Soy 125 to around 150 F if you are not adding any color. If you are adding color, heat your wax up to around 180 F. Add your dye and scent and let cool back down to 150 F.
We offer several options for coloring your wax.

Step 2

Remove the lids from your tins and arrange on the pouring table. Some people insert wicks first with a glue dot and some add the wick after they pour. Both methods work well.

Step 3

Add your fragrance and pour.

Step 4

Let cool and decorate the tin as desired. Tins get hot, so be sure to label the finished candle appropriately.

Jar candles have become so popular in recent years that many candle makers have forgotten the power of pillars. Pillar candles can add a real touch of beauty to any home decor, as they can offer extremely vibrant colors. Due to the fact that there is no glass blocking, the true color of the candle can be seen with the naked eye. Aluminum molds are best to create these freestanding candles and are a great investment because aluminum does not rust, so you can enjoy your molds for many years and reduce your expenses!

Selecting your mold can be fun. Candlewic offers many shapes and sizes, depending on the pillar that would best complement your existing line of candles. There are round molds, octagon molds, square molds, plus many other unique shapes in our designer series of polycarbonate molds.

There are two wicking techniques that are most commonly employed when using aluminum molds. You can use the traditional method or the pillar pin method. Both techniques work well depending on the volume of candles produced or the amount of labor available.

The traditional method involves the mold, raw wicking on a spool, a wick bar and a rubber plug. This method is best for lower volume production or in the instance when you want to leave a little length of wick on the candle to attach a bead or a tag. You simply thread the wick through the mold and place a rubber plug into the small hole to hold the wick in place. Place a wick bar across the large opening of the mold, wrap the wick around the bar and pour the wax. After the wax has cooled, the finished product will have the wick nicely centered down the middle of the candle.

The pillar pin method involves a round mold, a pillar pin and a pre-wick assembly. This method is better suited for the small to large production run. Basically, you are making a candle with no wick and inserting a wick after it cools. There are two ways to use the pin. You can either stick the disc part of the pin down into the mold or stick the pin up through the mold from the outside bottom. Pour the wax and let it cool. When you are done, you will have a candle with a hole through the center core and no wick. Take a wick assembly, insert it up through the hole and you are done. The wick will be perfectly centered. The pillar pins are only suited for the round aluminum molds.

When using aluminum molds, here are a few tips and techniques that will help you no matter what your method:

1. Take good care of your molds. Do not use them for any other use, such as a penholder or thermometer holder, because you may scratch the inside, which will be apparent on the finished candle.
2. By heating or cooling the mold you can achieve different aesthetic qualities to the finished mold. Cold molds give a primitive appearance, while warm molds may give a good gloss.
3. Keep molds level, unless a desired layered appearance is trying to be obtained. By resting the mold on various angles, some neat stripes can be achieved.
4. Take careful note on the pour temperatures. By adjusting the temperature you can control the shrinkage. Pouring too hot produces more shrinkage and may involve more topping off, while pouring too cool may not give you enough shrinkage, therefore making it difficult to remove the mold.

 

These days, a great deal of focus for natural candles is put on Soy wax, but there are other options for making great natural wax candles. If you want to create a candle with a unique pattern, where no 2 candles look the same, we would recommend trying Palm wax.

While this is an introduction to Palm, think of all the other projects you can do: layered unique shapes, different aromatherapy scents, the possibilities are endless! In today's market we feel it is important to really explore all opportunities available.

Ingredients you'll need:

• Wick
• Any Aluminum Mold
• Palm Wax
• Color Blocks
• Fragrance
• Wick Bar
• Rubber Plugs

 

Instructions

STEP 1

Melt Palm Wax in a pot. Note: the hotter you make the wax, the more the wax will create a snowflake look on the candle. Do not exceed 300°F (150°C).

STEP 2

Add some shavings of color blocks and 4% to 5% of fragrance.

STEP 3

Using the rubber plug and wick bar, prepare your aluminum mold for pouring.

STEP 4

Before pouring wax, it is suggested to heat the mold with a heat gun or a heat lamp to maximize the crystalizing effect of the Palm Wax.

STEP 5

Pour liquid Palm Wax into the mold and let cool. By slowing the cooling rate of your poured candles, you can create fantastic crystal effects in your Palm Wax candles.

STEP 6

Sometimes Palm Wax requires a second pour. You will know it is necessary if a thin layer of wax forms over your candle when cooled. Simply poke a hole in this layer and perform your second pour.

 

All natural and completely unique, palm wax candles are sure to capture attention and add an eclectic feel to any atmosphere!

 

Before beginning to describe this project, it may be best for us to describe what a "grubby candle" might be. While you probably will not find an official definition for a grubby candle, many people use the term to refer to the look of the candle, appearing like the surface of the candle is frosted or a layer is missing.

Unlike mottling, where the finish is actually "internal" on the candle, the finish on this candle will actually impact the surface. This candle is always a favorite among candle makers since it is relatively easy to make. The level of "grubbiness" can be controlled.

Any size aluminum mold can be used for this candle. We find the most popular is the 3 x 4½. You begin this project by chilling the mold for about 10-15 minutes. You then take the 4045H wax and add about 10% stearic acid to the formulation. Melt your wax to around 150-155 degrees Fahrenheit and pour it into the chilled mold as any standard pillar. Top off where needed and remove from the mold when the candle has completely hardened. Due to the peeling of the wax, the candle may have to be placed in the freezer for removal.