October 01, 2008

HTH (Hope This Helps)

HTH (HOPE THIS HELPS)

On behalf of the Candlewic Company, we wish to thank everyone that takes the time to read our newsletter on a regular basis. It is always fun sharing our passion of candle making with others that have this same enthusiasm. Candlewic has been in business for over 38 years and continues to learn from our customers on a regular basis so be sure to keep in touch with us and be sure to share with your candle community our newsletter and other resources we offer.

As we have written on many occasions, since we work with candle makers of all sizes, we always assume everyone knows “Candle Speak”. I don’t know about you but I get lost in the texting world so I am sure people thinking about candle making are initially overwhelmed. It is kind of like me and the texting world...it took me the longest time to figure out what terms like LOL, BTW, A3. Many others I probably will never learn.

In this issue it is our hope to identify the terms that might be found on our website, past newsletters, and when speaking with fellow candle makers. Once they are learned them, they are almost an instant part of the candle making language.

BACK FILL/TOPPING OFF
With the exception of those blended waxes that have been designed as one-pour, all waxes have some level of shrinkage. As the candle sets up it will shrink around the middle of the candle requiring additional wax to be added. The back fill/top off will be necessary to create a smooth top in containers or, in the case of pillars, a fairly uniform bottom to the candle.

MELT POINT
This is the temperature at which the wax will become fully liquid. There is an important distinction between melt point and pouring temperature. Be sure to check the product data sheet to determine which one is applicable to you.

MUSHROOMING
This is what can appear on top of your wick during the burning cycle. Specifically, these are carbon deposits. The following factors are some of reasons why this can occur: the core of the wick, lack of oxygen (in containers), scent load and incorrect sizing of the wick. Other factors can cause mushrooming, but these are the most common. Mushrooming can cause excessive smoking in the candle and should be reduced as much as possible.

BLENDED WAX
Blended wax is a wax that has all of the needed additives identified for a specific application. (In most cases with the exception of UV’s).

STRAIGHT WAX
Straight wax is a wax that can be used for general candle making but would require the use of additives to improve the performance of the candle.

MOTTLING
This is a fracturing of the wax which will create a look on the exterior of the candle that is “whited out,” snowflake looking or “washed out.” This look has been made famous by several “big name” candle companies. Not all waxes are designed to mottle so be sure to chose a wax designed for that application. If you are making mottled candles be sure to check out our brand new product being offered below.

PRE-WICK ASSEMBLY
Refers to a wick that is cut to a specific length, has a wax coating and metal base. These parts have made candle making in many instances much easier.

SCENT LOAD
This term especially applies to candle making. In general it is the percentage of fragrance placed in the wax. Scent load can run anywhere from 1% percent up to and in some instances exceeding 10%. This translates to 1 ounce of scent to 1 pound of wax is a 5% scent load.

FULLY REFINED WAX
This is a wax that has been through the maximum refined process. A fully refined wax generally has a melt point of 125 degrees F or better and has a lower oil content. The exact oil content will vary depending on the melt point of the wax. Fully refined waxes are generally used to make pillars, votives and most candles other then container candles.

BURN RATE
The amount of wax that is consumed in 1 hour of burning with the specific wick. However, without some type of base, the burn rate is difficult to evaluate.

SUSTAINER BASE
Sustainer base is the metal plate that holds the wick in place in the container. There are several sizes and styles. The type of candle you make determines the best one for the application.

There are definetely other terms that many of us use and if there is ever a term or a question that you need assistance, Chandler is always an email or telephone call away.

TAFN (That’s All For Now)

 

Hi! I'm Chandler!
I can help you
learn how to make candles.

CHANDLER'S CORNER

When I use the Custom Wick Builder it ask me to chose a sustainer base, is that an important part of the wick assembly?

Yes it is very important and I would refer to our chart that we have for the different types and the recommended application.  The first number always refers to the size of the base and the second number is the neck height which helps support the wick.

15 x 3 mm -- is a sustainer base which is about the size of a dime and has a neck height of 3 mm. This sustainer base is generally used in tea lights and small unscented votives.

15 x 6 mm -- is the same as above except the neck on this sustainer base is 6 mm high. This base is very popular to use in votives and small diameter containers for paraffin wax candles. It is used with gels but we would recommend a sustainer base with a 9 mm neck.

15 x 9 mm -- is the same sustainer base as above except the neck is 9 mm high. This sustainer base is very popular for use with gels and paraffin candles.

20 x 3 mm -- is a sustainer base about the size of a nickel with a neck height of 3 mm. This sustainer base is used extensively in votives and containers.

20 x 6 mm -- is the same as above except the neck is 6 mm high. It is used in paraffin candle containers and gel candles. We would recommend the 9 mm neck for gel candles.

20 x 9 mm -- is the same base as above except the neck is 9mm high. This base is very popular for gel candles.

33 x 3 mm -- is new to the marketplace and is great for votives. The diameter of this sustainer base ensures the wick will be centered in the bottom of the cup.

October 2008

Project:
Making a
Mottled Candle

One of the most associated looks with heavily fragranced candles is the mottled look. This look can be easily accomplished with containers, pillars and votives. It requires starting with the right wax. Not all waxes will mottle and using the right wax is essential.

The first step is to decide what type of candle you will be making and then choose the appropriate wax for that application.

Ingredients

Containers - Use 2530H
Votives – Use 3035H
Pillars – Use 4045H
Color blocks
Scent

Instructions

Step 1
Select, clean, wick, and prepare your jars or molds as you normally do.

Step 2
Melt your wax, add color and 5% fragrance.

Step 3
Pour your wax between 165-175 F

Step 4
Pillars and votives: Top off your candle. When the top off completely hardens, remove it from the mold.

Containers: Top off candle.

Special Notes on
Mottled Candles:

The reaction between the fragrance and the wax (causing it to fracture) is what causes the mottling. The fragrance and the process can have an impact on the level of mottling. If you do not achieve the desire mottling try pouring cooler first and then hotter until the desired results are achieved.

 




What's Hot in the Fragrance World

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