2. May 2013 23:50
Adding clam shells or tarts can be extremely easy, and, in many instances, you can use your existing wax formula and these products can then double as a way for you to send samples of what your fragrances smell like.
Ideally, the best wax to use for making tarts and clam shell melts is the CBL-129. It has excellent cold fragrance throw and will release very nice from the clam shell or the tart mold. You can use a low shrink wax but they do not release as well from the molds and soy can be brittle at times getting the wax out without breaking.
If using a wax like CBL-129 or a paraffin wax take the product up to around 140°F. With soy you will only need to take the wax up to around 120°F or so.
When your wax reaches the desired temperatures add your dye. With soy it will be easier to use liquid dyes because they will not have to melt like the color blocks.
Add your fragrance. In most instances, since you want to deliver great fragrance throw with a small cube you should be closer to 7-9% fragrance which works out to about 1.25-1.85 ounce per pound of wax. Again a reason to use the CBL-129 is that it will hold that much fragrance.
Lay out the clam shells and slowly pour your wax to the desired level.
When your wax is hard simply close and apply a label. You can custom design your own label for the front by going to Avery.com
Step 4 (alternative)
If you wanted to make tarts you should heat the wax close to 150°F and then choose the mold you want to pour into. The Floating candle mold M-112 is one of the most popular choices but there are many other choices like hearts, ducks, ships and others. In addition soap molds can also be used for making tarts.
The nice thing about the clam shells mold is the packing. After pouring the only handling required is closing and applying a label. The clam shell also has a "peg hole" - making it easy to display on any retail location. These products are also a great way to use up your extra wax and maximize your wax yield.
9. April 2013 17:26
Despite our continued cold spell here in the Northeast, summer will soon be upon us. As you plan your summer vacation, be sure to also plan for those possible rainy day activities. Sand candles have been around for a very long time and can make a memorable gift from your summer vacation. The other thing to consider when making this candle is to use up "scrap wax" you may have recently generated. Since each candle can be of a different design and shape using different color waxes will not effect the finished product.
- Tub / Bucket
- Glass or solid object
- Wax (141 Melt point)
- Dyes or (Color Blocks)
Fill the tub/bucket up with sand. Add water (you will have to experiment with the amount of water since sand texture varies) and try to pack the sand as tight as possible. The tighter it packs and the less water you use, the more consistent the outside shell of the candle will be.
Once the sand is packed tightly, take the cup or object and form a "cavity" in the sand. Once the cavity is formed, take your wax and pour at around 195-205°F. The wax can already be colored or you can now take color blocks and swirl them on top.
Once the wax gets a film on top, place the wick assembly into the wax. As the wax gets a little harder you may want to add shells and other non-combustible decorations.
23. January 2013 02:02
One of the looks most often associated with heavily fragranced candles is the mottled look. This look can be easily accomplished with containers, pillars and votives. It requires starting with the right wax. Not all waxes will mottle, so using the right wax is essential.
The first step is to decide what type of candle you will be making and choosing the appropriate wax for that application.
Select, clean, wick, and prepare your jars or molds as you normally do.
Melt your wax, add color and 5% fragrance.
Once the candle has been poured and is completely cooled, remove it from the mold.
Pour your wax between 165-175°F.
Pillars and votives: Top off your candle. When the top off completely hardens, remove it from the mold.
Containers: Top off candle.
Special Notes on Mottled Candles:
The reaction between the fragrance and the wax (causing it to fracture) is what causes the mottling. The fragrance and the process can have an impact on the level of mottling. If you do not achieve the desired mottling, try pouring cooler first and then hotter until the desired result is achieved.
10. March 2010 01:21
This project features a useful item to add to your operation regardless of your size. Tea lights are a great way to use up extra wax, create little "calling cards", or offer prospective customers a chance to sample your scents before purchasing a larger candle.
Below you will find the instructions for using our tea light mold that ensures perfectly straight wicks, but alternative techniques follow.
Lay the mold release over the entire mold.
Prepare wax with color and fragrance to suit. Pour wax into the mold so that all cavities are filled. There is a lip that holds overflow wax.
Remove pins and pop the tea lights out of the mold. Clean any overly rough edges with your fingers.
Insert a pre-assembled wick assembly into the hole in the candle and place into a tea light cup. You will notice that tea light cups have a small circular indentation on the bottom. This indentation is 15mm and is designed to match our 15x3mm wick tabs.
When pouring batches of wax, keep a few tea light cups on hand to pour excess wax directly into the cups. This is also the method used for pouring tea lights when using container wax. If you currently use a M-63-P votive pin for your votives, it will fit into the tea light cups as well. Simply place the pin in the tea light cup and pour a votive or pillar wax into the pin/cup set up. After it cools remove the wax/pin from the cup, flip the candle over and put back into the tea light cup. This will result in a beautiful recessed top.
9. March 2010 23:55
Add 1 lb of the Palm 1 wax into the pouring pitcher.
Clip the thermometer onto the top of the pouring pitcher with the thermometer inside.
Place the wax filled pouring pitcher into a large pan of boiling water. This will create a double boiler for you to heat your wax. Do not allow the water to boil dry.
Heating wax on direct heat can cause the wax to overheat and possibly ignite. NEVER HEAT WAX DIRECTLY ON A HEAT SOURCE.
As the wax melts, monitor the temperature with the thermometer. For accuracy do not allow the bottom of the thermometer to touch the bottom or sides of the pouring pot. Tip the pouring pot until the bottom of the thermometer is covered with the liquid wax. When the wax temperature reaches 185° F add two teaspoons of the liquid EVO-12 Burgundy color and stir.
Now you are ready to pour the first layer into the Apothecary jar. Monitor the temperature making sure it is at the pouring temperature of 180° F. Pour the first layer of colored wax into your jar to a height of 1”. After approximately 5 minutes place the RRD-50 wick into the jar. Make sure the wick tab is centered on the bottom of the. The hot wax will cause the wick to lean so use wooden popsicle sticks or wooden coffee stirrers to prevent the wick from falling toward the sides of the jar. Place the stick across the top of the jar to support the wick. Two sticks may be needed. Place the wick between each stick until it is centered.
Allow the wax to cool for approximately 3 hours or until the layer is solid and firm.
To prepare your second layer you will add 4 oz of Palm 1 wax to the colored wax that remains in your pour pitcher and repeat the melting and pouring process above (remember do not add any color). We are increasing the wax amount so that the original color will decrease in intensity.
Repeat the cooling time for the second layer.
Last layer, add 4 oz. of Palm 1 wax to the remaining wax in the pour pitcher and repeat the melt and pour processes, making sure that the pour temp is at 180° F. Repeat the cooling process.